Purpose
Although there has always been some demand for old and/or second hand
clothing, the awareness, demand and acceptance of this has increased
dramatically since the early 1990s.
This increase in interest is due in part to increased visibility, as
vintage clothing was increasingly worn by top models and celebrities.
There has also been an increasing interest in environmental sustainability in terms of reusing, recycling and repairing rather than throwing things away.
A resurgence of historically based sub-cultural groups like rockabilly and swing dancing has also played a part in the increased interest in vintage clothes.
At times, the cycle of fashion design
turns to history for inspiration, and garments closely resembling
original vintage (retro or antique) clothing are manufactured. An
example of this is the simple slip dresses that emerged in the early
1990s and were based on undergarments of the 1930s. These styles are
generally referred to as "vintage style", "vintage inspired" or "vintage
reproductions" depending on the faithfulness to the historical design,
and serve as a convenient alternative to those who admire an old style
but prefer a modern interpretation - another advantage is that, unlike
the original garments, they are usually available in a range of sizes
and perhaps, colours and/or fabrics.
Acquisition
Popular places to buy vintage clothing include charity-run second
hand clothing shops, garage sales, car boot sales, flea markets, antique
markets, estate sales, auctions, vintage clothing shops and vintage
fashion, textile or collectables fairs. One of the first regular fairs
that was set up specifically to cater for the current demand for vintage
clothing is Frock Me!. This event takes place regularly throughout the year in Chelsea, London as well as in Brighton.
Vintage clothing can sometimes be obtained from older friends and
relatives, because some people store their old clothing for long periods
of time.
The advent of the internet has been a boon to the vintage clothing
fancier, as it has been for all collectors. It has increased the
availability of specific and hard-to-get items and opened up prospective
markets for sellers around the world. Popular places to acquire
garments include online auctions (e.g. eBay), multi-vendor sites (e.g. Etsy), online vintage clothing shops and specialist forums. A vintage-lover may also turn to a custom dressmaker, who will use sewing patterns and/or fabrics from a bygone era to recreate a historically accurate look.
An important contributing factor the value of an item of vintage clothing can also be its provenance.
Vintage clothing collectors, like other collectors of history, value
and record the background of an item: who wore it and to what occasion.
Due to increased demand, pre-1950s garments in good condition are
becoming more difficult to find, and more expensive to procure. Clothing
from more recent decades is easier to locate, identify, restore,
conserve and (with the exception of popular designers) more affordable -
subject to market forces and the cycle of fashion.
Some things to consider include sizing (many old garments won't include sizing labels, or if they do, the old systems of sizing often differ from modern ones), condition (check quality of fabric, seams for stitching required, missing buttons, hems down or need altering, holes or tears), cleaning requirements (a good vintage trader will be able to advise you in this regard), stains (and, more importantly, likely success in removal) and correct storage
(for example, it is inadvisable to hang a beaded 1920s evening gown as
the weight of the beads will weaken or tear the delicate silk).
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